19^th - 20^th June: Jabiru

I didn't post for the last two days and this will probably not go onto the blog until tonight, Sunday, as we are moving to Darwin today. We have been enjoying our Kakadu experience and so have been out all day and exhausted at night!

We started on Friday (after waiting until 9.30 for a phone call re flight which never came) and went to Nourlangie Rock, a place we didn't see last time as the poor little Mazda was floundering in the sand patches in the road. Sealed road and so it was easy. We had to climb rocks and walk to the overhang where all the art was and then up to the lookout over the flood plains to the escarpment. A very knowledgeable ranger gave an hour long presentation on the history of the site and so of aborigines in this area, with archeological evidence. Amazing stuff and we learnt so much. (He's only been here 3 years but is certainly passionate about this living culture. ) An archeological dig found evidence of habitation for the last 20,000 yrs and what was happening in the environment at the time. For example, during the last ice age, the boomerang was invented because the kangaroos etc were larger and the plains were arid. As the ice cap melted and the sea level rose (at 30 cms a year) more trees grew and so the fauna became smaller as a response to bushier surroundings and the boomerang was useless. Hence, the development of stone points on throwing sticks (spears). There are no paintings of large kangaroos done in the last 5,000 years.

After a couple of hours there, we went to another site nearby, used by the same people: Nanguluwah Rock. A very hot walk to the base of the cliff which was facing the sun and radiating heat – the hottest I've been for a long, long time. But it was worth it as the art was fantastic, including a ship in full sail, probably from 1890 – 1900's.

 But we all became so dehydrated there! Although it was late, we decided to go to Uburr Rock which was north of the main road to Darwin and 65 kms in. We had been here before and I have of photo of the children on one of the rocks under the shelter. We knew it as Obirri Rock,which was probably a whiteman's approximation. About 100 people there to hear the aboriginal ranger talk about the art, his family and country. He was interesting but he spoke so softly and in such a rambling manner that he was difficult to understand. This rock overhang was a shelter after the ice age when rivers were developing and fish became an important part of the menu. The art here showed the barramundi, bream and catfish, turtle and file snake.

We then drove down to the crossing near which we had camped. Cahill's Crossing it is now called and it is much the same: people fishing for barra; cars crossing over in a foot of water pouring past to go to Arnhem land and Oenpelli; crocs cruising up and down. (One had a monitor on his back.) But our camping spot was very diff erent: it is covered with trees, all younger than the big ones near the river. 

 

That evening we heard another very interesting talk from the first ranger we had seen, about the work that Parks & Wildlife do up here. Heis a very good communicator and we came away with a real respect for the few men and women actively involved in caring for this country!

(Flocks of corellas are flying in! They are so noisy!!)

 Saturday, we had to be up at 5.00 am (amid protests from the other two!) to drive to Cooinda for a sunrise cruise on Yellow Water. What an experience! Probably100 people or so! Flat bottomed aluminium punts cruising across the wetlands in the early morning using only the light of what Mum called “picaninny dawn” to see birds as well as numerous crocodiles (including two pairs having territorial issues with each other. Glen has a great photo of two fighting!)

 The reflections in the still water were beautiful.

 

A Jacana-a lillypad strider.

 A fabulous trip! It was followed by a sumptious breakfast at the Cooinda lodge – as good as we used to pay $30 for at the Hilton years ago!

We left there at 10 am to go to Jim Jim Falls, 50 kms down a corrugated dirt road (like the roads all used to be! ) Glen let air out of the tyres which was just as well given the nature of the final 10 kms of the trip! It really was 4WD country – lots of deep ruts in sand patches, rocks in places that have flooded and 1 metre high, sharp speed bumps! Gail's commodore would have had hystericsat the first speed bump! But the X-Trail ploughed on – literally! (That's why Glen fitted a very expensive set of bash plates before we left! Their job is to be bashed! And to save the sump etc!) It was slow going into Jim Jim Falls and we decided to walk up to the falls. 2 kms return the info said. With some boulders to walk over! Well, I will never believe such brochures again! It had to be more than 1 km in as that was only to the large pool away from the falls. The falls themselves were twice as far again! And over large boulders most of the way. Gail and I didn't get there. We were just exhausted. I found a hole were the stream trickled in pools under a rock and I took my shoes off and sat there dangling my feet ion the cold water. It looked so inviting Gail joined me while Glen went further to photograph the falls and plunge pool close up. ½ an hour later he came back and joined us. Then he found his camera had played up and we had no photo to prove he'd got there. Ah well! Too bad, so sad!! Then we had to scramble and clamber over these boulders to get out! 3 hours this all took. I've used muscles I haven't used in a long time!

What amazes me is the sheer number of people at these places! All with much larger 4WDs but many with little children and arriving at 4.00 pm. I don't know what they think they are going to be able to do then.

Well, we came home. It took us over an hour just to get to the sealed highway and I for one was totally exhausted. But a good night's sleep has revived me and I feel truly satisfied with our Kakadu experience!