14^th August: Exmouth

The NE wind came howling in early this morning. No clouds in the sky, a merciless sun and a roaring wind. We put our awnings down as we would be away all day and this was supposed to last until Sunday. Our last day in Exmouth and today we explored the Eastern side of Cape Range. But first, a stop at the Mitre 10 to buy a replacement high tensile bolt for the front bash plate. One had fallen out.

We climbed the steep road up Charles Knife Gorge to the top of the range. Great views of the Exmouth Gulf. The road ran along the ridge and so there were spectacular gorges either side. We finally reached the start of the walking trail but as it was 8 kms long over very rough ground, we decided there were better ways to spend our time. This range is limestone as I said yesterday, very weathered and incredibly rugged. It is so hot and waterless, it must be horrific in summer.

 We stopped and had a coffee on the side of the northern gorge. Very scenic!

After we came down, we went to several notable spots on the coast of the Gulf. Firstly, Learmonth jetty which is just near the Learmonth RAAF base established in WW11. It was recommended as a good fishing spot. Not today. As it is facing north, waves were smashing over the concrete structure. Then we investigated two memorials. The first one, the Potshot Memorial, told the story of the US submarine base established in the gulf and making raids on the Japanese bases in Indonesia very successfully. Catalinas, Kitty Hawks, long range bombers were also stationed here at the nearby airfield. The Japanese apparently landed a number of men who hide out in the range gorges because evidence was found of their presence. However, nocontact was ever made. A cyclone destroyed the Catalina base and eventually the subs were shifted. But the air base is still here. The whole operation was called Potshot.

Then we went to the Krait Memorial. That is a really interesting story of an old fishing vessel manned by 14 men who pretended to be Malay fishermen. They entered Singapore harbour and blew up 34,000 tons of enemy shipping and then some more outside the harbour. This was a very successful mission. However,the story of the next similar venture on the Rimau was an absolute disaster with all men killed by tribesmen, disease and the Japanese.

We then had a look at the marina and fishing port. Many large fishing boats, mostly owned by the local seafood company, Kaillis, were tied up. But what was astonishing was the canal estate just behind it. All sand and the water line only about 6 ft below the houses. This place is cyclone prrone. I wouldn't build a new house there for any money! The houses all seem to be architect designed, lots of rippled metal and glass, all looking like elongated boxes. Amazing!

As we came home, we decided to look at Bundegi Beach. None of these eastern beaches are as calm and beautiful as the other side but they do have good fishing where there is no sanctuary. Just before we arrived, a man had landed,with just a small rod, a Spanish Mackeral that was at least a metre long. It was so heavy he struggled to carry it.Gail was envious! The navy have a long jetty up on the point. Going anywhere near it is prohibited. I wonder what they use it for!

Approaching the caravan park, we stopped for a photograph of the headland and caught sight of lots of whales out to sea. Then we spied an emu eating grass just off the road – probably the same one as the one that ambled through the park! So our day ended with whales and an emu!