26^th August: Kalbarri

It is funny how some things from 37 years ago are very clear in my memory and some are not. I remember the inland gorges very well but the coast line not at all and yet I am sure we visited both. Maybe it is because the inland often appears in photographs and the coast doesn't. Yet it is the coastline that has impressed me this time.

We set off early andwent out to the gorges. We arrived just after a group of rangers and we followed them all the way through the NP. That was interesting as one seemed to be informing the other 3 about the park. So we learnt a lot such as which animals were there, what the predators are, which animals had been reintroduced once the numbers of predators have been decreased and which reintroductions had been successful. They are still working on the rock wallabies but foxes are a real problem despite a vigorous baiting program. Wild pigs are regularly hunted by helicopter and shot as they causee enormous damage to the river bed and cats are baited but they are difficult as they are clever. (You can't hide a tablet in a cat's food: they eat around it!) We saw the footprints of the ancient animal, the eurypretid, and heard about a stupid bus driver who photographed his passengers standing on top of the Nature's Window which is actually very fragile! Hence, all the signs re cliff safety!!

 

The Murchison has, over the millions of years, carved deep gorges through the old banded and predominantly red sandstone and the scenery is spectacular. We did lots of walking down and up gorges and revisited sites I remember well. I had forgotten how far it was between each feature but we made iot longer by stopping to identify flowers. The wildflowers are just coming out! (Consequently, as well as 60 photos of birds and a hundred of dolphins, I have 150 photos of flowers! I will spare you!)

 Nature's Window

 Hawk's Head

We came home for lunch and then drove to the coastal gorges where the sandstone is overlaid by a thick layer of limestone. It is very reminscent of the Port Cambell NP in south-west Victoria. There are only a few features, a bridge and a stack, but the cliffs are magnificent and I could watch the sea for hours. The big swells came rolling in and crashed as thunderous waves onto the coastline, spraying up and dying in a mass of white wash. A wonderful sight! (And so I have dozens of photos of waves!! Much culling to do when I go home!) These huge seas have created the coastline because the cliffs are actually quite fragile as rocks go. It is no wonder all those Dutch ships were wrecked on this coast. It is actually very inhospitable. Even the mouth of the Murchison is difficult although pictoresque.

Photos are a little hazybecause of the spray!

We leave tomorrow, A pity really as this too is a lovely town and we haven't had time to enjoy it fully as April arrives in Geraldton on Thursday. This caravan park is very pleasant. Lots of trees and irregular roads and sites; no wind despite the strong westerlies out on the coast yet we are only a two minute walk from the beach; relatively inexpensive but with great facilities! A block of individual bathrooms, with toilet, hand basin and a curtained shower. Probably the best I have ever been in!!

It is odd how many of these towns don 't have banks! What ATMs there are are often out of money! And the IGA doesn't give you cash! A problem really!