24rd July: Cape Leveque – Ardyaloon & Kooljaman

After breakfast and another walk on the beach,we packed up, paid our dues and went on to One Arm Point or Ardyaloon, the community is called. Entry was $10 per person which we though was rather expensive until we realised this included entry into the Trochus Hatchery. We weren't planning to visit this but I am so glad we did. Trochus shell has always been important to the local people here and for the last few years they have bred shells, fish and other marine life to release back into the seas around the point to restock the depleted habitat very successfully. The trochus the people gather on the reefs and in the wet season they spawn and then they are releqsed back to the reefs. The spawn grow and in a year are ready for release. Likewise the clams, the fish and aenomes. Old shells are polished and sold. They have a contract with a button maker in Italy and are looking for more. Our tour was conducted by a young local girl who knew her stuff and was amusing in the way she attributed personalities to the fish. (Greedy, shy, cheeky etc.) Two guys were cleaning up shells – I don't think Work Place Health & Safety had audited the place ever. One of them was a local artist and he had just finished cleaning green shells, rare and highly prized- and so I was able to buy one!

We really enjoyed the visit and after watching the tide rip out – as it does- we drove back to Kooljamin at Cape Leveque. This is another community again and there is a great camping ground here. No vans allowed but lots of tents. We climbed up the hill past the lighthouse – now solar driven- and down for a lovely swim. The beach was white and beautiful, the water green-blue and crystal clear and the cliffs and rocks, red. Absolutely lovely! The water was very salty and cool but even Glen was inspired to swim. It was so refreshing. Lots of people camp down here in beach shelters and there are facilities. We climbed back up after a fresh water shower and Glen was hankering for some Calamari and Chips for lunch. So we sat down in the restaurant in our wet togs and ate a lovely lunch. Very cool!!

 We went down to the western beach to see the red cliffs. Spectacular! But very hot with very crumbly red mudstone looking extremely fragile.

We had no time left and so missed Lombadina. However, we had by this time, seen some fantastic beaches and, more importantly, seen some hard working, innovative and creative communities. I was impressed by the organisation, tidiness and community spirit of these urban areas. Lots of dogs but no kids on the street – all in school,no-one sitting around aimlessly and no drunks. I agree, Denis, that it is a pity that southern media don't highlight these aspects of the north.

We drove home; it took us 2 ½ hrs but there was very litle traffic on the road. Where the graders had been was brilliant and the rest was bearable. The long shadows made it more difficult but we all agreed it had been worth it! A lovely, lovely relaxing place. I wish we had had more time there.